I thought there was value in posting something from here since my driver for starting this blog was because I'd become accustomed to great food in Melbourne and wanted to review and reflect on the food in a city that was new to me: the lovely Edinburgh.
Since I've been in Melbourne for my visit I've squished in plenty of amazing food. When I first touched down in Melbourne I stayed in a hotel in Spencer St (in the south of Melbourne's CBD), and so in the morning I lazily (and jet laggedly, if that's a word) wandered up to Queen Victoria Market.
If you don't know it - either because you're not from Melbourne/Australia or because you've never been (in which case, you're a fool!) - it's glorious. There's a great market culture in Melbourne and it can be very affordable to shop at markets.
I didn't buy much to take away because I knew I'd be moving around while I'd be here, but it was a feast for my eyes. The cheeses, the meats, the antipasti, artisan breads, teas, wines, honey, organic produce, wholegrains, as well as the hot food places that offer burek, pizza (from the Colour of Earth stall, which has several gluten free base options and some interesting toppings), kransky and more... my eyes were wide and I may have had a bit of drool coming out the side of my mouth. I love this about Melbourne - not drool, but the appreciation of great, fresh food, the multiculturalism and diversity and what this has meant for food in Melbourne, and the zest that people have for all of this. There's not just the Queen Victoria Market, there's also Preston, Prahran, South Melbourne and Footscray and Camberwell markets (all suburbs of Melbourne). I must say that I severely miss this about Edinburgh. The Edinburgh Farmers' Market is great, although much smaller, but it's less accessible in terms of price. Unless you buy what you need and not just what you crave, it can get expensive very quickly.
To emphasise how much food I've had already and how much I love food, here's where else I've eaten since I've been here:
- Le Triskel, Hardware Lane, City (Authentic French creperie that serves savoury buckwheat galettes, sweet crepes, Breton cider and the most magnificant caramel macarons I've tasted without being to Paris yet)
- Casa Farro, Nicholson Street, Carlton (Rustic Italian offering woodfired dishes and lots of spelt options such as spelt and ricotta gnocchi and spelt pizzas. It's also my favourite Italian restaurant in Melbourne)
- Grill'd, Various - this one was in Hawthorn (Gourmet burgers with choices such as the Hot Mama, with harissa, tzatziki and roasted peppers; the Baa Baa Burger, with lamb, as well as terrific herbed chunky chips)
- Spudbar, as above (Gourmet spuds with loads of toppings. I had the Chili Bean and Mushroom, which had not only chilli beans and mushrooms but also cheese, chives, sour cream, fresh tomato and baby spinach)
- Los Amates, Johnston Street, Fitzroy - (A great Mexican joint with amazing food, a large (but not over the top) menu in colourful surrounds with super friendly staff, altogether rocking my world)
I've also stopped in at Haighs, my favourite chocolatier (there are several in Melbourne but it originated in South Australia), and I've also had several great coffees.
Ahhh, this might sound exhausting for some, or just ridiculously indulgent, but, how could I not? It's been glorious. I find in Melbourne, if you feel like Korean, you've got it; feel like Czech/Slovak food, I know of a place; feel like Middle Eastern, lots of options and, er, I think I've made my point. I gorged myself, and without breaking the bank.
As much as I adore the food culture in Melbourne, I'll miss plenty of things about Edinburgh when I finally come back here. There are things we just don't do as well, or at least, our produce isn't as good (although with such different climates, that's fair enough to a point).
In my visit, I've brought home some bottles of raspberry vodka for a couple of my friends and it's pretty special. Special enough to thoroughly enjoy just over some ice. None of that Absolut stuff... this is proper, tart, intense, sweet, real raspberry vodka from East Lothian from a favourite shop of mine, Demijohn. My point is actually that berries in Scotland are incredible and shit all over Australia's. As does Scotland's game, pork, seafood (I think), fish (I think, although I loathe haddock, which is on almost every menu here), and the dairy and cheeses are pretty damn good too (by that I don't mean the orange stuff they sell at Tesco - head to Iain J Mellis in Victoria Street). Combining the point about pork and raspberries, I dropped into a wee farm with a wee shop near St Andrews, and admired the produce, but mostly admired the big, healthy looking pigs gorging on a pool of raspberries. Their snouts were coloured by the red slop and I couldn't help but feel strangely jealous.
Yes, Scotland's produce is excellent. I found myself quickly missing its porridge too, because when I woke up the morning after arriving I ate an instant cup of Uncle Toby's and it was a gluey, sloppy mess. Stoats (at Edinburgh Farmers' Market), is much different; much better, AND you can get Cranachan porridge (with raspberries and topped with toasted oats) or things like whisky and honey porridge.
Being back in Melbourne has been great. There's no denying that it's great to get some sunshine and warmth, catching up with friends and family and returning to my old stomping grounds. I do love the food here, but there's great things about food in Edinburgh, especially if you know to try the things I've mentioned and try Scottish cuisine in general, including haggis - it's delicious.
